The value is 100nF, probably 6.3V if you need to replace it. BE CAREFUL! These caps are not very good quality, and tend to break the endcaps off with any prying or force. You'll find it easier if you "dilute" the solder with some good old lead-based solder.ģ) You might as well remove C7 (little cap just below crystal) to give yourself more room to work with. The stock solder seems like lead-free, which melts a bit hotter. These are too expensive to learn to solder with.Ģ) First add some standard (lead based) solder to anything you're working on. My suggestions for those who may try it.ġ) Make sure you know what you're doing.
I have quite a bit of experience hand-soldering SMD's, and I would say its not too bad. Definitely not as hot as stock crystal, stock heatsink, and no fan - that will freaking burn you - but still quite a bit warmer than stock setup with fan.Įdit - by the way, I did my rework with a fine-tipped soldering iron. I'm machining some aluminum heatsinks to hold two each, as I can't imagine the stock heatsink can dissipate the extra power - is anyone with an overclock running the stock heatsink here? Are you guys using thermal grease, or finding the silicone pad is enough? Even with the new heatsink, the chip is quite a bit hotter. However both are running fine, and I don't see a big difference in the temp of the step down converter. On one, I changed the inductor because the stock inductor REALLY looks like a 2A version. OK, got 2 of 12 done using 16MHz and 1.35k.
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